Long night at Biokovo

By Maria Alejandra Rubio

Climbing in Biokovo was amazing. We opened our 2026 multipitch season with almost the same team we closed the 2025 season with, and in a very similar style.

We were three rope teams. On the first day, we climbed sport routes, giving the strong winds time to calm down while getting familiar with the climbing style on these beautiful plates and perfect pockets. The routes required technique, shifting weight smoothly from one side to the other, with the kind of balance and elegance needed to resist sudden gusts.

On the second day, Špela and I, together with Blaž and Maša, climbed, or rather took the “shuttle route” up to Mali Borovac. A lovely 7-pitch route, perfect for easing into the season on solid rock with delicate, balanced moves. We didn’t place any gear, except for a sling on the ear, that I, in love with earrings, simply couldn’t resist. After a nice sandwich break, we descended the route by abseiling, which was very quick with two rope teams.

Meanwhile, Armandito and Tom climbed the Tommy route, because who could resist climbing a route with your own name? It’s calling you: nomen est omen. What was supposed to be a 270 m climb turned into a 400 m adventure, as there was no obvious exit where expected. Nothing the boys couldn’t handle, especially since they were rewarded with an unexpected sunset over the Adriatic from the wall. As always, topping out in the last light brought that familiar sense of relief and happiness, before descending via the walking path.

What was meant to be a warm-up for the main objective of the trip—Dalmatinski San 600m—took more energy than expected, and plans kept shifting the next day. For unexpected reasons (including a key piece of gear left in the car) and changing winds, the boys adjusted their objective again. Instead of climbing Lighthouse Keepers, they ended up on the same route as the girls.

On the third day, the sun hit harder. Špela and I, this time joined by Armandito and Tomy, climbed Superpanoramica. Špeli led the 6a pitch with great technique, while I placed a bit of gear here and there, mostly to avoid runouts and enjoy the views more comfortably. Wise destiny always seems to know how to perfectly distribute the pitches, assigning each of us the ones best suited to our style.

Meanwhile, Maša and Blaž followed through on a “date with fate.” On a previous trip, they had stumbled upon what looked like a beautiful route. After a 1.5-hour hike in Brela, they reached the base and climbed the 350 m Pezzoplato Joy. With delicate, balanced moves, they topped out successfully.

On the final day, we all enjoyed the cold sea, good food, and plenty of laughs. It couldn’t have been a better start to the season. Looking forward to more!

Climbed routes: 

Shuttle, 215m, 5b+ (Maria and Špela, Maša and Blaž)

Tommy, 290m, 6b + extension at the end 110m (Armandito and Tom)

Superpanoramika, 200m, 6a (Maria and Špela, Armandito and Tom)

Brancaleone, 350m, 6a (Maša and Blaž)